Taking the Leap
July 7-9 2003
random trip report
Rob V. and I decide to expand our multi-pitch climbing skills,
so we hire a guide for three days from
Alpine Skills International.
The guide is Tom Carter, a veteran of Yosemite in the 70s
and an extremely knowledgeable and friendly guy.
We spend two days at Donner Pass and one day at Lover's Leap.
The two days at Donner are a mixture of instruction (mostly on protection-related stuff, some on climbing technique) and actual climbing. We do a few easy crack routes, and I lead a 5.8 with Tom climbing beside me and coaching.
Rob and I stay in Reno.
On second day we do anchor-setting in the morning,
then Jelly Roll (two pitches, starting with a
tricky diagonal traverse).
It's hard to remember all the stuff Tom covers, but here are some of the high points:
We drive to South Lake Tahoe
(note to self: if you want the cheapest motel, search off the main drag).
The next morning we drive to Lover's Leap and meet Tom at 7:30
(to make sure we're first in line).
We climb Corrugation Corner, which is among the world's 50 Klassic Klimbs.
It's four pitches of 5.7,
fairly steep and with exposure,
but easy because of the corner and the horizontal dykes in the rock.
We're done by 2 PM.
We decide not to start another climb,
and instead chat with Tom for a while,
then (acting on Tom's beta) drive down 50 and turn south on Silverfork Rd.,
and drive a couple of miles to a wonderful
swimming stop in the river.
It's bracingly cold.
On the way back we stop at Pipeworks in Sacramento and climb for a couple of hours, including some 5.11A. Then it's on the Murder Burger in Davis for some of their famous Salty Fries.