South Africa 1999

David Anderson

4/17-5/2 1999

Urban Scenery

Capetown: From the plane, Capetown looked like any American city, with skyscrapers and cul-de-sac suburbs, until I saw a "township" with its random sprawl of sheet-metal huts. And then, after deplaning, seeing a stand of distinctly African high-canopied trees (acacia?). And, in the parking lot, a car advertising its armor plate.

Capetown is built at the foot of Table Mountain, which often is covered with a cloud layer that spills over its edges like a lace tablecloth.

Walking through Capetown: trash and squalor in Parliament Park. A beautiful Anglican church, with eager commentary from its black attendant.

We stayed at Rockhaven, a B&B across the bay from Capetown. The elderly proprietors: Irene and Maureen, who lewdly assess (verbally and physically) their younger male guests.

Around the mountain is Camp Bay, a posh yuppie enclave similar to Sausalito.

Drive towards Cape of Good Hope.

Port Elizabeth

Knysna marina, downtown, wire bender

George 2nd-hand store Carene's school Wilderness: hotel w/ tennis, trampoline Victoria Bay, Land's End

Natural Scenery

Dramatic/changing skies, varied clouds, iridescent clouds, sunbeams, sunsets

Language

Almost everyone speaks Afrikaans, a Dutch/French/German hybrid. The blacks speak tribal languages like Xhosa ("click"-osa). In english, some idioms: "zebra crossing" (crosswalk), "robot" (traffic signal), "mozzies" (mosquitos), "now-now" (soon).

Race and Politics

Security signs everywhere warning of "Total Armed Response".

The national election was a month off; ANC posters were everywhere, and also minority parties such as NNP (New National Party).

Food

Braai: Boerwurst, lamb chops, paap (corn meal) with tomato sauce. Biltong: shredded beef; soft/mild jerky. Poiki: cooked over coals in cast-iron pot: onions/garlic/spices (rosemary, sage); meat; yams/green beans/potatoes; broth; cook for an hour, add thickener at end. Buttermilk rusks. Milk pie. Lots of KFCs. Roiboos tea. Dinner at the African Cafe: sampling of whole continent.

Minibus taxis: crowded, high fatality rate, gangsterism

Elise's church: stained glass, "children's story", enraptured piano/organ women.

Drive w/ smelly employees to township.

Addo elephant park: night view waterhole. Former alpha male Happoor (notch ear).

Shawmari Game Reserve. Guide: Andre. Lunch, native village (dance, hut demo, cooking, healer, circumcision, polygamy) Close-up views of animals, ready to drive quickly if charge. Elephant, giraffe, rhino, zebra, lion impala, springbok, dik-dik.

Night drive by me: total concentration on staying to left.

4/17

Flew to Miami, except a thunderstorm (and brush fire) forced diversion to Ft. Myers to refuel. Missed flight to Capetown; no airline liability. Dog-tired, rented a car, drove randomly through squalid Latin areas. Ended up at El Presidente, $62/night. Room service: cigars and liquor. No A/C, blankets or clock, but full mirrors and porn video. I managed to contact Dan W, then Elise.

4/18

After a good night's sleep I drove to Miami beach. Incessant rain. Art Deco, moribund. Cuban breakfast, more driving, return to Miami, visit art museum (only 2 exhibits open).

4/19

Arrive noon; walk on beach

4/20

Walking tour of capetown. meet Mark/Dawn. drive towards cape. visit Naomi.

4/21

table mountain; drive to George, stop in Somerset West

4/22

pick up Carene/Shomon at school walk to Victoria Bay Dinner Sandy's house

4/23

food shopping Braai at parents packing

4/24-4/28

hike

4/28

drive to Port Elizabeth, drop off Mark/Dawn, drive to Addo at night

4/29

See Addo; drive to Shawmari; see Shawmari; Drive to Port Elizabeth (me, at night); dinner at semi-fancy fish restaurant stay at Kruger guest house

4/30

Drive to George, stop in Knysna

5/1

church wilderness w/ carene; tennis, trampoline Elise cooks Poiki; I make pie

5/2

drive to capetown; depart